August 20
Hola Panama! The rain finally stopped early this morning, but alas our clothes never dried (never even came close to drying). After our free breakfast at Hotel Wilson (which was pot roast, no joke), we slimed on our warm and wet pants, coats, boots, helmets, and gloves. Well, after shaking out the cockroaches (no joke). Neither one of us were in the mood for the tedious bureaucracy, so our border crossing today was even more arduous than usual. Fifteen window visits in two countries for what could be seven efficient stops. Pay exit fee, get exit stamp, cancel car permit (or in our world, about seven stops). And then in Panama: get insurance, get passport stamp, get vehicle permit, and get vehicle inspection (or in our world, about eight stops). All while squishing around in warm wet footwear, growing bacteria and fungi by the minute. Warm. Moist. Funk. Ok ok, no more complaining. I have feet and they are fine. Although after looking at them, Ernie did say that it didn’t look like i had any bones in my feet. Like they were just deflated bags. Ha! In total it took us 2.5 hours to border cross, but we gained an hour in time zone differences.
Since I was not in the mood to hustle the border crossing scene as much as it was hustling me, I spent a bit more time looking around and interacting. Two highlights. One was the three women (aged 40-70) who were traveling, by Toyota Prius, from Mexico to Argentina. I wish I spoke spanish better as I would have really enjoyed talking with them, as they clearly have a feminista edge that is a source of fuel for their journey. The second highlight was noticing a sticker/slogan/political statement on most-all of the semi trucks. It was about unionizing or joining Central American countries so that the truckers could freely move goods between all the countries in CA. It gave me a lot to think about. On the one hand, there are all the national and economic pro’s of individuality/individual national pride. On the other hand, without a rail system, semi trucks are THE mechanism by which most of these countries (and in fact many of the US states) have to get goods and products in and out of their towns and to exchange with other places. When we entered Costa Rica the line of semi’s (heading into Costa Rica from Panama) stretched for 4-5 km. Many engines idling for many, many hours.
Our first evening is in David, Chiriqui (sp?). We arrived about 2 pm and explored town for a few hours. It is definitely not touristy, so we yet again caught up on our inability to blend in and incessant honking by taxis. We enjoyed some cheap eats at a restaurant; we were hoping for something Panamanian but the only thing open are Asian restaurants, perhaps because it is Sunday? On our walk back we stumbled into drumline practice. For what or when we don’t know, but it was loud and great. Around the corner from the drum liners was a collection of horns (trumpets?) that served as their accompaniment.
And now an evening chillin’ at the hotel (Hotel Lleras). Tara’s feet will hopefully dry out and we will try and find some cheap, safe hotels for the next few nights on the good WiFi. Panama, like Costa Rica, is expensive. However, unlike Costa Rica, Panamanian hotels have hot water! We enjoyed a long, long, long hot shower here at the hotel… Our first hot water since Nicaragua (no joke).
We stopped at a supermarket on our way back to the hotel. It was a very USAmerican market so there wasn’t any new and different food to try, but we did pick up a few of each of the three low ABV lagers to choose from here, all for .60 a can. Balboa (best name, but not the best sabor), Atlas (decent name, decent sabor), and Panama (it has green on the can?).
August 21
How was the eclipse Portland? We hope it was a fantastic.
Ernesto and I ultimately had a great day. Last night we decided it was unacceptable to just power through the mega-highway that is the PanAm in Panama (seriously, this road is better in quality than most of USAmerican roads). We decided we needed some adventure. So we decided to take two excursions today. The first was Hwy 41 north out of David to the town of Boquete. It is a there and back trip (100 km total), at times sketchy steep, and smooth lovely pavement that instantly turned to thick gravel. At one point Ernesto had to park to help me (never had my brakes fully engaged AND still sliding on the gravel before), and then when I got out and down to “safety” I fell down (Ouch. Ugh. Sigh). I figured the bike was already down, so I went up the hill to help Ernesto get out of his little ditch, then after getting his bike safe he came down to me to help me up and out of my pickle. While all that mostly sucked, it was a good pop-quiz in how we get back up and recover after a fall.
Again, we were very thirsty for some views, peeps, and critters, and all of which we successfully obtained today. It was a beautiful sunny day and the mountains around Boquete are apparently always cool and slightly breezy. It was the perfect temperature even in moto gear (which is probably why we saw more than a few retired gringos?!?). We had some nice but brief chats with a few locals on the journey: one fellow on his Honda Shadow (and proud of it) and another group of young men outside a “car wash” when we pulled over to fix our headsets. I put car wash in quotes because in Mexico and Central America all you need is a hose and a bucket and you can sell the crap out of your CAR WASH! and people will flock in for the auto cleanse. After all the men talked and we were ready to head out, a ~25 year old woman came out and wanted to take my picture. I hate to write about myself in this way, but I believe she was inspired. She has a moto too - it is 200cc and red. She had lots of questions about me and my bike and our journey, and I was very happy that I understood all of them and could answer them in spanish.
We also filled up our scenic-view-meter today. The roads we were riding on basically played around the base of a volcano and its valley, so even with homes and power lines it was gorgeous. Lots of flowers and big trees, even some type of pine. There was a purple flower that was unbelievably purple, and lots of big, white droopy flowers that are pollinated by gigantic hawk moths. The crop of the day was coffee. Lots and lots of big and tall coffee. And we were so happy to get two really great bird sightings. The first was a blue crowned motmot and the second was an emerald toucanet. And yes, we had no idea either of these two birds existed before today. But we had such good views of both there is no mistaking their identity. Despite being different species it is interesting they both behaved the same way. The motmot was on the road (we were doing ~20km/h) and after we saw it we slowed to nearly a halt. It barely hopped-flew to the side of the road and perched a few feet off the ground. It wasn’t afraid at all, and stared at us as intently as we stared at it. It had a beautiful bright turquoise head wow! The second bird, the toucanet didn't’ even leave the road! It was sitting just off the center yellow stripe and I rode by at ~1 km/h staring and it staring back at me. When Ernie rode by it he actually came to a complete stop and they stared at each other a few feet apart. It was just laying there in the middle of the road. Shortly after a car came behind us, swerved into the oncoming lane, and the little buddy flew off. Ernesto calls them chubby and docile, and says they compare with our scarlet macaw sightings. Not as magnificent of an animal, but a much more intimate experience.
After Boquete we drove ~75 km to Hwy 461 which heads (eventually) south to la playa. We took too many wrong turns to find the beach, but it's around here somewhere! We found a very nice hotel (for very cheap) and we are the only ones here. There are two pools, a bar, a restaurant, and about 30 rooms. The owners are German and very nice. After a quick trip back to the last town to shop at the mercado, we were in the pool by 3 pm and are still enjoying reading, writing, and relaxing at 6:30 pm. The tungara frogs are singing! Earlier I rescued a mating pair from the chlorine pool and Ernest took a photo :) These are my first tungara frogs and I’ve known and taught about the tungara frog-bat story for almost 20 years. And the loudest whining tungara around is inside a PVC pipe, unable to be scooped up by bats. How do the lady tungaras feel about males in PVC pipe? Sunset is coming soon and then we shall dine on Tacos al Ernesto. None of this part sucks.
Hola Panama! The rain finally stopped early this morning, but alas our clothes never dried (never even came close to drying). After our free breakfast at Hotel Wilson (which was pot roast, no joke), we slimed on our warm and wet pants, coats, boots, helmets, and gloves. Well, after shaking out the cockroaches (no joke). Neither one of us were in the mood for the tedious bureaucracy, so our border crossing today was even more arduous than usual. Fifteen window visits in two countries for what could be seven efficient stops. Pay exit fee, get exit stamp, cancel car permit (or in our world, about seven stops). And then in Panama: get insurance, get passport stamp, get vehicle permit, and get vehicle inspection (or in our world, about eight stops). All while squishing around in warm wet footwear, growing bacteria and fungi by the minute. Warm. Moist. Funk. Ok ok, no more complaining. I have feet and they are fine. Although after looking at them, Ernie did say that it didn’t look like i had any bones in my feet. Like they were just deflated bags. Ha! In total it took us 2.5 hours to border cross, but we gained an hour in time zone differences.
Since I was not in the mood to hustle the border crossing scene as much as it was hustling me, I spent a bit more time looking around and interacting. Two highlights. One was the three women (aged 40-70) who were traveling, by Toyota Prius, from Mexico to Argentina. I wish I spoke spanish better as I would have really enjoyed talking with them, as they clearly have a feminista edge that is a source of fuel for their journey. The second highlight was noticing a sticker/slogan/political statement on most-all of the semi trucks. It was about unionizing or joining Central American countries so that the truckers could freely move goods between all the countries in CA. It gave me a lot to think about. On the one hand, there are all the national and economic pro’s of individuality/individual national pride. On the other hand, without a rail system, semi trucks are THE mechanism by which most of these countries (and in fact many of the US states) have to get goods and products in and out of their towns and to exchange with other places. When we entered Costa Rica the line of semi’s (heading into Costa Rica from Panama) stretched for 4-5 km. Many engines idling for many, many hours.
Our first evening is in David, Chiriqui (sp?). We arrived about 2 pm and explored town for a few hours. It is definitely not touristy, so we yet again caught up on our inability to blend in and incessant honking by taxis. We enjoyed some cheap eats at a restaurant; we were hoping for something Panamanian but the only thing open are Asian restaurants, perhaps because it is Sunday? On our walk back we stumbled into drumline practice. For what or when we don’t know, but it was loud and great. Around the corner from the drum liners was a collection of horns (trumpets?) that served as their accompaniment.
And now an evening chillin’ at the hotel (Hotel Lleras). Tara’s feet will hopefully dry out and we will try and find some cheap, safe hotels for the next few nights on the good WiFi. Panama, like Costa Rica, is expensive. However, unlike Costa Rica, Panamanian hotels have hot water! We enjoyed a long, long, long hot shower here at the hotel… Our first hot water since Nicaragua (no joke).
We stopped at a supermarket on our way back to the hotel. It was a very USAmerican market so there wasn’t any new and different food to try, but we did pick up a few of each of the three low ABV lagers to choose from here, all for .60 a can. Balboa (best name, but not the best sabor), Atlas (decent name, decent sabor), and Panama (it has green on the can?).
August 21
How was the eclipse Portland? We hope it was a fantastic.
Ernesto and I ultimately had a great day. Last night we decided it was unacceptable to just power through the mega-highway that is the PanAm in Panama (seriously, this road is better in quality than most of USAmerican roads). We decided we needed some adventure. So we decided to take two excursions today. The first was Hwy 41 north out of David to the town of Boquete. It is a there and back trip (100 km total), at times sketchy steep, and smooth lovely pavement that instantly turned to thick gravel. At one point Ernesto had to park to help me (never had my brakes fully engaged AND still sliding on the gravel before), and then when I got out and down to “safety” I fell down (Ouch. Ugh. Sigh). I figured the bike was already down, so I went up the hill to help Ernesto get out of his little ditch, then after getting his bike safe he came down to me to help me up and out of my pickle. While all that mostly sucked, it was a good pop-quiz in how we get back up and recover after a fall.
Again, we were very thirsty for some views, peeps, and critters, and all of which we successfully obtained today. It was a beautiful sunny day and the mountains around Boquete are apparently always cool and slightly breezy. It was the perfect temperature even in moto gear (which is probably why we saw more than a few retired gringos?!?). We had some nice but brief chats with a few locals on the journey: one fellow on his Honda Shadow (and proud of it) and another group of young men outside a “car wash” when we pulled over to fix our headsets. I put car wash in quotes because in Mexico and Central America all you need is a hose and a bucket and you can sell the crap out of your CAR WASH! and people will flock in for the auto cleanse. After all the men talked and we were ready to head out, a ~25 year old woman came out and wanted to take my picture. I hate to write about myself in this way, but I believe she was inspired. She has a moto too - it is 200cc and red. She had lots of questions about me and my bike and our journey, and I was very happy that I understood all of them and could answer them in spanish.
We also filled up our scenic-view-meter today. The roads we were riding on basically played around the base of a volcano and its valley, so even with homes and power lines it was gorgeous. Lots of flowers and big trees, even some type of pine. There was a purple flower that was unbelievably purple, and lots of big, white droopy flowers that are pollinated by gigantic hawk moths. The crop of the day was coffee. Lots and lots of big and tall coffee. And we were so happy to get two really great bird sightings. The first was a blue crowned motmot and the second was an emerald toucanet. And yes, we had no idea either of these two birds existed before today. But we had such good views of both there is no mistaking their identity. Despite being different species it is interesting they both behaved the same way. The motmot was on the road (we were doing ~20km/h) and after we saw it we slowed to nearly a halt. It barely hopped-flew to the side of the road and perched a few feet off the ground. It wasn’t afraid at all, and stared at us as intently as we stared at it. It had a beautiful bright turquoise head wow! The second bird, the toucanet didn't’ even leave the road! It was sitting just off the center yellow stripe and I rode by at ~1 km/h staring and it staring back at me. When Ernie rode by it he actually came to a complete stop and they stared at each other a few feet apart. It was just laying there in the middle of the road. Shortly after a car came behind us, swerved into the oncoming lane, and the little buddy flew off. Ernesto calls them chubby and docile, and says they compare with our scarlet macaw sightings. Not as magnificent of an animal, but a much more intimate experience.
After Boquete we drove ~75 km to Hwy 461 which heads (eventually) south to la playa. We took too many wrong turns to find the beach, but it's around here somewhere! We found a very nice hotel (for very cheap) and we are the only ones here. There are two pools, a bar, a restaurant, and about 30 rooms. The owners are German and very nice. After a quick trip back to the last town to shop at the mercado, we were in the pool by 3 pm and are still enjoying reading, writing, and relaxing at 6:30 pm. The tungara frogs are singing! Earlier I rescued a mating pair from the chlorine pool and Ernest took a photo :) These are my first tungara frogs and I’ve known and taught about the tungara frog-bat story for almost 20 years. And the loudest whining tungara around is inside a PVC pipe, unable to be scooped up by bats. How do the lady tungaras feel about males in PVC pipe? Sunset is coming soon and then we shall dine on Tacos al Ernesto. None of this part sucks.